Until it closed in 2020 the large, 3-block long Fairway supermarket in Harlem had a famous “cold room” that held the store’s meat, seafood, dairy, and beer. On the wall outside that vast refrigerated room were pegs holding quilted vests for us shoppers to wear before entering with our shopping carts. And whenever I was there I’d smile at the memory of another cold room I’ve known – although one not nearly as large as Fairway’s. It was the walk-in fridge off the...